Popovers

The name “popovers,” like onomatopoeia but with action instead, describes what happens when these hollow delicacies are baked. The batter poofs up and pops over the rims of the muffin tin. They’re also great fresh out of the oven with a bowl of soup for lunch or dinner.

3 large eggs

2 large egg whites

13⁄4 cups whole milk

13⁄4 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons sugar

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1⁄4 teaspoon black pepper

1⁄4 pound Gruyère, Swiss, or any kind of cheese you got, shredded

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin pan.

  2. Measure all of the ingredients except the cheese into the pitcher of a blender. Blend on medium-low until smooth and well combined. The batter will be rather thin—don’t panic.

  3. Pour 1⁄3 cup batter into each cup. (Some people swear by preheating the muffin pan, but it’s up to you. If it’s too early in the morning, I never do.) Each cup should be a little more than half-full. Scatter the shredded cheese evenly over the center of the filled cups.

  4. Put the popovers in the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until tripled in size, hollow in the center, and a healthy golden brown on the outside. You can stalk this process from the window of your oven, but DO NOT OPEN THE DAMN DOOR until they’re done. Just don’t. This is an extremely fragile process. Opening the oven will prevent your batter from popping over, and in turn, prevent these from fulfilling their life’s purpose.

  5. Pop out of the pan and dig in immediately. Popovers are best warm out of the oven, or the same day at the very latest. They will lose their crunchy, hollow magic if you attempt to save them for the next day.